GoPro HERO clack-clack noise while running with headstrap – SOLVED

The problem is loose components on the inside of the camera, along with the fact that there is vibration between the headstrap prongs and the transparent case prongs, along with a little bit of collision between the lower back edge of the transparent case and the headstrap plate.  Superglue and tape fix the internal issues, standard office rubber bands fix the external issues.

CAUTION:  THIS IS WHAT I DID TO GET RID OF THAT ANNOYING CLACK-CLACK SOUND AS I RUN.  I TAKE ABSOLUTELY NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING THAT YOU DO TO YOUR GOPRO CAMERA.  YOU ASSUME ALL RISK OF DAMAGE, LOSS, ETC.

Here is the video of my participation in the 2012 North Shore Turkey Trot 10K, you can see that I am running up until about the halfway mark before the click-clack noise returns, and even then it comes and goes.  I think the reason for this is movement in the rubber bands as I run.

MESSAGE TO GOPRO:  WHY NOT TRY TO FIX THE STUPID DESIGN OF THE HEADSTRAP AND THE PRONGS AT THE FRONT?  WHY NOT USE STIFFER PLASTIC?  IDIOTS!

IMPORTANT:  GET A SMALL SOFT COTTONY TOWEL TO PUT THE CAMERA ON BEFORE OPENING IT UP.  YOU DO ***NOT*** WANT TO SCRATCH THE CAMERA LENS!!!!!!!

You will need two jewelers screwdrivers, you can get a small pack of them at the dollar store, else go to DealExtreme, etc.  You will need one screwdriver to steady the screw when you will put it back in, the other to replace the screw.  Be careful, the screws are small, easily lost.  Also, the two on the left are slightly larger than the two on the right.

Once you’ve opened the camera case, use superglue in the “well” on the right where the small, black hockey-puck shaped speaker sits.  Use a sliver of scotch tape to tape the red and black wires from the speaker onto the black rectangular computer chip.

Superglue the internal microphone in its slot.  Don’t worry about its wires.

I put a bit of cotton around the internal microphone, which ended up getting into the hole of the top left screw.  That screw is now lost, don’t bother with any cotton, you won’t need it.  I was still experimenting with what I could do to get the noise to go away.

Close the case.  Go easy on the screws, don’t strip their threads or the head.  Use one screwdriver to position the screw, the other to replace it in.

If you are using the external battery pack, use scotch tape to make sure it is not loose against the camera.  Funny, but the external battery pack is loose when you snap it in place.

With the headstrap, take a “size 33” standard office rubber band and loop it multiple times around the center prong of the headstrap.  This is where the prongs at the bottom of the clear transparent case are inserted.  There is “wiggle room” here, even when the black screw post is securely tightened in place.  The rubber band looped around itself four times will absorb this wiggle.  You should be able to just insert the clear case prongs into place, and enter the screw post and tighten it.

But don’t tighten it all the way, you will still need to be able to orient the camera case into final position.

Use one or two more rubber bands looped around the combined prongs, again, you want the rubber there to act as a shock absorber.

Actually, you may want to run a rubber band around the base of the clear case, at the base of ITS prongs, before inserting the clear case prongs in between the headstrap prongs.  Again, where the headstrap prongs touch the base of the clear case is a place where contact vibration can occur.

Not only that, but the black clasp at the top of the clear case wiggles a bit. So, finally, loop a runner band twice around the vertical dimension of the case, making sure that you cover the center bottom where the clear case hits (and yes, it does hit it, as you run) the black plastic plate of the headstrap.

GOOD GOD, GOPRO, WHAT WERE YOUR DESIGNERS THINKING???  The whole design screams FAIL, and the proof of this is the clack-clack noise that runners get.  Loose components in the case (not to mention the button at the top of the camera) and wiggle/vibration in the connecting prongs, and contact between the black plate of the headstrap and the bottom of the clear case.  Check out THIS video on YouTube from an earlier 5K race:

Wear a baseball cap, and put the now-mounted headstrap on securely.  Move the clear case into position and firmly tighten the screw post.

That should be it.  The rubber bands around the base will break after use, after you’re done running and want to take the camera out to get the SD memory card.  But replacing them should be no problem.  But, as you can see on my first YouTube link above, NO click clack noise until I think the rubber bands got loose halfway through the race.

You do what you gotta do to make this work RIGHT.

Advertisements

About johnvkaravitis

Senior Financial Analyst: Energy, Insurance, IT consulting, Pharmaceuticals, Publishing, Real Estate
This entry was posted in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s